2018 - Spain
Above: TIMDT on her 39th! Le Gabriel Restaurant, Place de la Bourse, Bordeaux, France. 25 September 2018.
TIMDT: Turbot.
Mwah (sic): Game hen.
Happy birthday! — eating dinner with my love at Le Gabriel.
TIMDT also celebrated her birthday last year outside of the US. She was on a ship to Panama on 25 September 2017.
TIMDT was joined by most of her immediate family members for a celebration of family September birthdays last Friday at California Pizza Kitchen, in Murray, UT.
Above: TIMDT stands in mists at Miroir d'Eau, Bordeaux, France. 25 September 2018.
Background: Place de la Bourse.
Miroir d'eau is a one-of-a-kind reflecting pool that people can actually walk over. It was built in 2006. It is made up of a field of granite slabs which are covered in a half inch of water, creating a sort of giant mirror. It covers 37K square feet.
During the summer months, the shallow skin of water an be turned into a fog of mist, as seen in the image above, by a mechanism hidden beneath the slabs. Other than this feature, the pool generally sits as a quiet, if giant, puddle.
TIMDT and Mwah (sic) acknowledged to one another that we had never seen anything like this water feature.
Above: TIMDT observes vines. St. Emilion, France. 26 September 2018.
Center of Bordeaux wine country.
The Romans started all this vine culture enjoyed in the West today.
Beautiful weather... low '70's, sunshine.
Lottsa walking, which is good.
Our taxi driver was a Harley Davidson owner. He said one of the best experiences of his life was riding a Harley, over a three week period, through the American southwest four years ago.
Above: Bamboo straw! Virtue is its own reward! 26 September 2018. Le Bordeaux Gordon Ramsay. Bordeaux, France. 26 September 2018.
Virtue is its own reward.
TIMDT asked waiter if she could keep it.
"No," he said. "We reuse them." — eating dinner with my love at Le Bordeaux Gordon Ramsay.
Gordon Ramsay. Not Deplorable food...still, not bad.
Addendum:
Sooooo. The “Duck” is getting some brain surgery?!
Peachtree,
Atlanta, GA
Happy Birthday, Margaret!
Zib
New York City, NY
Cyber and Physical BOOM BOOM INDIAN RACING Team Members:
“Bleeder” – Colorado; “General Miles” – Montana; “Hondas Pete & Dee” – Washington; “Makers Mark” – Cape Town, Republic of South Africa; “Sexanator” – Thailand; “Wolf” – Thailand; “Jolly Roger” – Thailand; “Scooter Guy” (also BOOM BOOM Team Personal Trainer and Weight Loss Consultant) – Thailand; “Hog Nose Momma” – Arizona; “Genezilla” – Arizona; “Deadhorse” – South Carolina; “Two Stroke” – Brisbane, Australia; “Tonto” – Missouri; “Umbrella Girl” – Missouri; “Moose” – Thailand and Minnesota; “Gopher” – Great Britain; “Cinnamon Girl” – Montana; “Big Fish” – Montana; “Ghost” (aka Pee, in Thai) – Montana; “Beatnik” – Oregon; “Bishop” – Utah; “Porta Potty Rain Man” – California; “Hidden Cyber Minority” – Deep web locations….and miscellaneous VIPS, All Knowing Idiots and a few trolls.
WOUNDED TEAM MEMBERS RECOVERING
Deadhorse is in a self-imposed vegetarian and water rehab program after having been knocked down hard by The Hurricane Florence Flu. Tonto is back home after 27 days and two ICU hospital adventures. Hog Nose Momma’s broken hip is healing and Bleeder is back on a motorcycle after breaking five ribs and busting himself up pretty good while reading his GPS at speed.
PAPARRAZZI CAUGHT FILMING BOOM BOOM INDIAN RACER
At the top secret Denver motorcycle studio one camera paparazzi was chased away after being seen using a selfie stick to film over the top of the 8 foot high wall enclosing the compound. Outside the enclosed Jumping Fish Adventure Resort in Montana another camera person was chased away after trying to film Boom Boom Indian Racer doing his outdoor morning naked yoga routine as part of the secret racing weight loss program that resulted in a 30 lb weight loss prior to the hill climb.
INDIAN SPORT SCOUT RACER QUIETLY GOES ON THE MARKET
The 1936 Indian Sport Scout race motorcycle (photo attached that is used with some ads) has been quietly announced as being for sale. Tire kickers, offers from Nigeria and time wasters or BSers have been ignored or told if trying to significantly negotiate or knock down the price they don’t know s*** about value.
SURPRISE PAINTING FROM SCOOTER GUY
Scooter Guy, unable to break away from a heavy work schedule in Thailand to help man the pits on race day in July, made an over-the-top contribution. He took the ad photo (pic attached) to a Thai artist who painted a 2’ x 4’ image of the 1936 Indian race bike on canvas. Unbelievable was how the artist, who had never seen a hill climb or the Indian after the dirt, captured the essence of dirty hill climbing or flat track racing with brown dirt on the race bike. A photo of the painting is attached. A fist bumping global “thank you” went to Scooter Guy for his conjuring of a way to be a part of the global team and surprising Boom Boom Indian Racer. The artist “did a heck of a job, right down to the red duct tape on the left handlebar that holds the kill switch.”
NEXT?
Finger waving at the few naysayers who sat on their porch, maybe huddled in their office cubicles or residences pounding keyboards while the Team celebrated a Hill Climb trophy and having scored an event T-shirt will ponder and likely be trolling and keyboard pounding the pending announcement that the Team has a plan to approach Elon Musk for space on a future moon flight for the Indian and Boom Boom Indian Racer to be the first to ride a motorcycle on the moon, or as a lady inner circle planner said, “It will be one small ride for a man, one giant motorcycle adventure for mankind.”
[End of September 2018 Boom Boom Indian Racing Transmittal]
Dr. G,
Crow Agency, Montana
Above: Wildflower Cafe. Emmigrant, MT.
The Copper Miner,
Promintory, UT
Above: Palais Galien. Bordeaux, France. 27 September 2018.
TiMDT observes Roman amphitheater ruin which once held 20K. Abandoned 3rd century. — at Palais Galien.
I've seen Roman ruins in England, France, Italy, Egypt, Lebanon, and Bulgaria. Roman culture was extensive and its impact, in our art, architecture, language and literature, lasting.
Above: Stained glass in St. Peter's Church, Bordeaux, France. 27 September 2018.
13,019 (around six and one half miles) steps today, walking around Bordeaux inner city. Lunch at a city center restaurant, Les Nouailles.
I was last in Bordeaux in 1966. I spent the day assisting LDS missionaries and local members working on the construction of an LDS chapel. I was then living in La Rochelle, 150 miles north on the Atlantic coast. My missionary companion and I had taken an early morning train from La Rochelle to reach Bordeaux.
During this stay, TIMDT and Mwah (sic) have enjoyed perfect weather. It gets a bit warm (low '80's) in the afternoon, but, we find shade to walk in.
There are quite a few tourists. Bordeaux has become somewhat of an "in" place of late. Its been on the outs for years. Rick Steve's doesn't even cover it in his travel guide on France.
Speaking of Rick Steve's, his book doesn't cover other places in France that I like: La Rochelle and Marseille to name two. Warning: Rick Steve's guide book should be entitled "Selected Locations in France," not "France."
In Bordeaux restaurants most of the guests seem to be foreigners.
We were in Rome a couple of months ago. Our guide told us that it was tourism that kept Rome going. There was no work for most people, she said. Romans could not afford to go out to eat in restaurants frequented, mostly, by tourists. The same phenomenon seems to occur here in Bordeaux.
Addendum:
Happy birthday to Margaret - she doesn't look a day over 38! PS, I love the photo of Margaret with the blue hat and red pocket book overlooking the vineyard. What a great painting that would make. I think that Shutterfly has a way to turn photos into brushstroke paintings.
Nathans,
Massapeaqua, NY
Margaret you are still as a lovely person as I remember. Steve is fortunate indeed. Happy Birthday!
Joe,
Sydney, Australia
C’est trés bonne!
Isetta,
Chicago, IL
Thanks for the review Steve.. Read a book "Hidden Persuaders" by Vance Packard back in the early 1960s. He made many of the same points long before there was an internet. I use the lessons learned in that book all of the time. Remember in Tokyo they used to have garage sales at the National Stadium parking lot? You rented a parking space for the day and sold anything you wanted to get rid of. I once went with one of my neighbors. I had a bunch of first class airline bags to get rid of. I put them all out at once for a couple of hundred yen each. Not one sold. Then I took them all back and just left one out. Bang it sold immediately. Then I put another one out - same result. Eventually they all sold. Proof that Japanese (and most people) want exclusivity. Another example that day, my wife had a Coach leather pocketbook she no longer wanted. I put it out lying flat on the table. Lots of people picked it up to look at it but no sale. When I stuffed it with paper to plump it up to look like a full pocketbook - bang! it sold right away. Amazing the things you can do to make people act on impulse. It is a little like getting a fish to strike at your bait!
Nathans,
Massapeaqua, NY
Dear Steve,
Please wish Margaret from all of us at Travel Scope belated birthday wishes. I did send a message to her on her FACEBOOK.
Hope you are enjoying your trip to France.
Mohan,
Gurgaon, India
Above: Pissaro. 1890's Paris, Rue St. Honore, post rain. Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza. Madrid, Spain. 28 September 2018.
Private collection of art acquired over two generations by Heinrich Tyssen-Bornemisza and son, Hans Heinrich Tysen-Bornemisza. Acquired by Spanish State in 1993. Collection installed in the Palace of Villahermosa after the building's conversion into a museum. Collection, including paintings of Masters and French Impressionists, spans a period dating from the late 13th century to the 1980's.
The two paintings shown here in my diary had particular appeal. The Pissaro: As a Paris denizen for 18 months I know the Rue St. Honore well. Kandinski: I loved the simplicity of the painting, and, was intrigued with Kandinski's personal story of returning to Russia, from Germany, at the onset of WWI.
Above Kandinsky. Scene of Murnau, Germany. Blue Writer Group. 2nd Phase German Expressionism. 1912 to 1914.
Kandinsky returned to Russia, from Germany, at onset of WW1. Assisted Bolsheviks in art related work until Stalin, when he left the public scene.
I loved this painting. — at Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza.
Above: Flamenco. La Taberna de Mister Pinkleton. Madrid, Spain. 28 September 2018.
Attended by Birthday Boy party goers.
Intense.
Serious.
Emotional.
Riveting.
Flamenco post midnight circa 2008 in another Madrid club with Mwah (sic) and today's birthday boy, el Contador.
Little loose, then, with too many Marie Brissards. Ie. the "intense" of the dance was "intenser (sic)."
Hat tip: Allahi — at La Taberna de Mister Pinkleton.
Above: Happy birthday El Contador! — eating dinner at Casa Lucio. Madrid, Spain. 28 September 2018.
Birthday boy at 80.
Uber organizer Eton Mum organized the perfect party. Museum, flamenco, dinner, and after dinner drinks. The two sons (by Eton Mum), one of whom, channeling Dad, is moving to Madrid for a year of schooling, were there to honor their Dad.
Restaurant, Casa Lucio, was an el Contador favorite during his years in Madrid and on numerous return visits.
TIMDT and Mwah (sic) honored and delighted to be participating in this wonderful celebration.
Above: Eton Mum and Bishop rockin'. Some club in Madrid, Spain. 28 (really into the 29th, four hours past Bishop's bed time) September 2018.
Madrid stays up late with lottsa people everywhere out and about. I guess if we're witnessing the slo mo demise of Western Civilization, Madrid mode is a pretty good way enjoy it.
El Contador's birthday was made official at this club as party goers toasted him at the stroke of midnight.
Sagardi Cocineros Vascos Two nights ago, 27 September 2018, on late arrival from Bordeaux at the hotel (Orfila, Madrid, Spain), we were directed by the Orfila concierge to this Basque tapas place, five minutes walk from the hotel. I make this entry because TIMDT was ecstatic with the fish, hake, that she consumed. It is rare for TIMDT to rave about food. The hake would be the start of a seafood extravaganza throughout our visit to Spain... even for the beef eating Bishop.
Above: Old Town Park City. Fall. 29 September 2018.
Cute yellow house, huh?
Hat tip: Long Beach (who likely didn't know he had captured an image important to to the Bishop and TIMDT).
Breakfast nook. Fantastic tromp l'oiel fresco renders the area as being larger than it really is. — at Relais & Chateaux Hotel Orfila. Madrid, Spain. 29 September 2018.
Relais & Chateaux Hotel Orfila.
September 28 at 11:18 AM · Madrid, Spain · 29 October 2018.
Button for bottom/lobby floor..."0" protrudes. Same elevator cabin configuration as first two (in France) hotels on this trip. I don't recall seeing this set up in European hotels before, though I haven't been travelling in Europe much over the last few years.
But, I understand its purpose. For Americans the ground floor is one...the first floor. For Europeans the ground floor is zero. The new distended button is to ensure Americans, increasing (because of the Trump economy) as a percentage of total European travelers, reach the ground floor on their first try.
Relais & Chateaux Hotel Orfila.
September 29 at 7:56 PM · Madrid, Spain ·
Bishop is in lobby awaiting TIMDT. Lazy day after arising at 10:30 AM. Jabbered with birthday boy, el Contadore, for a couple of hours, on array of stuff. Next, cocktails and "the real" birthday dinner, starting early, at 9:30 PM. Selfie image in mirror. TIMDT and Eton Mum out shopping most of the day.
Eating dinner and cocktails at Restaurante Zalacaín.
September 29 at 10:45 PM · Madrid, Spain.
Birthday boy, El Contadore, at 80, and TIMDT.
Iconic Madrid restaurant. One Michelin Star. Eatin' good in the neighborhood. This was the "real" birthday dinner. 25 or so guests including Madrid residents, former Spanish business partner and worldwide Arthur Anderson board member and his wife. Other attendees from the US and the UK. El Contadore's former Chicago secretary (and her married daughter), while he was at the top (Managing Partner) of one of the world's top accounting and consulting firms, Arthur Anderson, was present. Wonderful birthday celebration organized by devoted uber spouse Eton Mum. For 'Cake, across from me sat a former Chicago based partner of El Contador, now living with his wife and family in the UK, who is a die hard Chicago Cubs fan. He was wearing a Cubs tie (1!)... and, he knew baseball and the Cubs inside and out. Despite living in the UK, he has a steaming service that delivers to him all the games. Late evening Saturday games he can watch Sunday morning in the UK. Next to "Cubs" was Angela, a Edinburgh accountant, who TIMDT and Mwah (sic) met 8 or 9 years ago when we visited Edinburgh with Eton Mum and El Contadore. Angela is a world wise, animated woman who is great to be around in a conversation. She gave me some recommendations on what to do... where to go.... in Lisbon when we're there in November. Its good hanging out with Eton Mum's and el Contadore's friends! Seven course meal. My favorite was the sole. One of the better birthday dinners I'll ever go to. Grateful to be 20 year friends with Eton Mum and El Contadore. So many great trips together.... Scotland, Pacific Northwest, Spain (2x), Suez Canal, Egypt, Gulf, Dubois, WY, and more than I can't pinpoint right now. TIMDT and Eton Mum have been partners on several of TIMDT's girls trips. Together, even as we celebrate our friendship and el Contadore's milestone event, the girl contemplate yet another adventure. Did I tell you about the story when, riding in the F350 back to Park City from Dubois, el Contadore smoked a stogie and flavored up the truck interior and my clothing? I was deathly afraid that TIMDT, who said she would divorce me if I smoked cigars, would think that I had committed the original sin. In the end, I got away with it. She didn't detect the cigar smoke. Honest! I didn't smoke one (then). Only el Contadore did! We met Eton Mum and El Contadore via our friendship with The Prosecutor and The Litigator in Park City. Each has since passed from earthly life, but, each's presence here at El Contadore's 80th birthday dinner in Madrid was palpably sensed.
Addendum:
Two Deux Magots regulars, 'Cake and Kilimanjaro, visited the Mother Shipf, Cafe Deux Magots, in Paris, yesterday. While the primary purpose of their French sojurn was to visit Cafe Deux Magots, and, to recharge their intellectual energy from the ghosts of Camus, Hemingway, Sartre, Picasso and de Bourvoir, always present at Cafe Deux Magots, each of them decided, on a lark, to make a quick side trip to the Ryder Cup golf competition.
'Cake at Cafe Deux Magots, Paris, France. 28 September 2018.
Kilimanjaro at Cafe Deux Magots. Paris, France. 28 September 2018
Above: One of two leaning buildings. Peurto de Europa, completed in 1996. Madrid, Spain. 30 September 2018.
Image taken from a moving cab driving down Madrid's main drag, Paseo de la Castellana.
Post two days of El Contadore birthday celebrations in Madrid with twienty five people attending. TIMDT, Mwah (sic), Eton Mum and el Contadore are going on an excursion today to Segovia, thirty minutes from Madrid via high speed rail. We'll arrive in time for lunch at the famed Meson Candido, Castilian cuisine restaurant.
Above: Suckling pig. Specialty of the house. Meson Candido. Segovia, Spain. 30 September 2018.
Iconic Castilian restaurant situated right next to Roman Aqueduct. Our table, on the third floor of the restaurant, was against a window through which we could see the ancient Roman aqueduct just outside.
"Good food on the plate, good wine in the jug, sounds from guitars that awaken with a song, because Spain is for living, Castile is for wining, Segovia for feeling and Candido for eating." Pablo Neruda.
Many anecdotes surround the mythical Meson. In the 1960's, the Spanish journalist, Tico Medina, recounted in one of his articles how actor and director Orson Welles, famous for his excessive appetite, could eat in one sitting a bowl of beans from the farm and two roasted piglets accompanied by loaves of white bread, and several pitchers of wine.
Politicians, movie stars from Hollywood's Golden Era, including Cary Grant, Grace Kelly, Charlton Heston, Ava Gardner and Edward G. Robinson among others; European monarchs, and the Emperor of Japan have signed the Meson's Golden Book.
Above: Alberto Lopez, owner of Meson Candido. Meson Candido, Segovia, Spain. 30 September 2018
Alberto Lopez, owner, and son of founder of Meson de Candido, Candido Lopez, about to slice/chop suckling pig - the restaurant's signature dish - with plate in his right hand. The ceremony of cutting the pig with the plate was started by Alberto's father, Candido.
After breaking up the pig, Senor Lopez tossed the unbreakable plate - it made a loud clatter - on the tile floor.
Candido died in 1992, but his son Alberto and his grandchildren have continued to follow his legacy of serving the best traditional Castilian cuisine. Candido is one of Spain's most visited traditional restaurants.
Hat tip: Pic by Eton Mum using Bishop's smart phone.
Above: El Contadodre, Eton Mum, and TIMDT at Segovia Roman Aqueduct. 30 September 2018.
Aqueduct is 2000 years old. 2500 feet long. 100 feet high. 118 arches. Made from 20K granite blocks without any mortar. Can still carry a steam of water.
The extensiveness and reach of the Roman Empire can be seen today via widespread Roman ruins throughout Europe.
TIMDT and Mwah (sic) have visited Roman sites in Lebanon, Syria, Turkey, Bulgaria, France, Spain, Italy, and Great Britain.
Above: Bishop, Plaza Mayor. Segovia Cathedral. Segovia, Spain. 30 September 2018.
Following the visit to the cathedral (external visit... the interior was closed for repairs), we walked down to Segovia Castle and spent a few minutes walking around the castle grounds.
Above: El Jardin de Orfila by Mario Sandoval. Madrid, Spain. 30 September 2018.
One Michelin Star. Eatin' good in the neighborhood.
We are getting into the Spanish mode here with dinner starting at 9:30 PM. We'll take breakfast tomorrow at 10:30 AM.
Considering the last two days eating experiences, this trip is turning out to be a gastronomic Odyssey.
Stephen D. Taylor is with Margaret Taylor at Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes.
October 1 at 12:41 PM · Toledo ·
Ten years fighting starting 1482 with Christian forces attempting to recapture Granada from Moors. .
Hanging from monastery wall, shackles of Christian slaves freed after Christian victory over Muslims in Granada in January 1492.
Jews expelled from Toledo by Christians three months later.
TIMDT, Mwah (sic), Eton Mum, and el Contador took a high speed train from Madrid to Toledo this AM. We stayed the night in the parador and enjoyed its beautiful view of Toledo on the hill across the way.
Stephen D. Taylor is with Margaret Taylor at Museo Parroquia de Santo Tomé.
Stephen D. Taylor is with Margaret Taylor at Museo Parroquia de Santo Tomé.
October 1 at 2:15 PM · Toledo, Spain ·
El Greco masterpiece, "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz," unmoved from its original location.
Stephen D. Taylor is with Margaret Taylor at Iglesia Del Salvador Toledo.
October 1 at 8:19 PM · Toledo, Spain
TIMDT observes Toledo through the ages in multi cultural tower. Roman granite foundation rock. Visigoth inlay carved stripe, became a mosque minaret, then top brick layer bell tower for Catholic Church. 200 BC to present.
TIMDT in Blue hat. 01 October 2018.
Principal Catholic church in Spain. Center of apostolic authority in Spain. Built on French style. No cathedral in France is larger than Toledo. Only Milan, Cologne, St. Peter's, and Seville are larger than Toledo. — at Catedral de Toledo. Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada.
El Greco. "El Expolio de Cristo." Sacristy.
Stephen D. Taylor is with Margaret Taylor at Catedral de Toledo. Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada.
October 1 at 2:58 PM · Toledo, Spain ·
El Greco. "El Expolio de Cristo." Sacristy.
Painted on site between 1583 and 1584. Church cut El Greco fee in half because of three "errors:"
1. Painting convention at the time said no figures should ever appear in a painting above Christ.
2. Roman soldier is dressed like a Spanish trooper.
3. The Three Marys, lower left, according to scripture, only appear at the resurrection.
El Greco was an early expressionist. Went beyond boundaries in other ways too. He didn't gain purchase as court appointed painter for traditionalist Philip II.
His paintings, most of which were painted in Toledo, became "masterpieces" long after his death.
Toldedo image captured at dusk from our hotel, Parador de Toledo. 01 October 2018.
Addendum:
You need to try Sobrino de Botin in Madrid.
Panama,
Los Angeles, CA
For dinner, try Bodega de los Secretos in Madrid. Fantastic. Go for the tuna tartar two ways. Was just there a month ago.
Eric,
Park City, UT
Bishop Steve:
You wrote: Considering the last two days eating experiences, this trip is turning out to be a gastronomic Odyssey.
So how's that "Odyssey" fitting in with your dietary regime?
The 30 lbs. I lost from May 1 to July 27, in preparation for the motorcycle hill climb, still seem to be gone unless the scale at my local pharmacy is lying, and that's after falling off the wagon a couple of times to inhale some pizzas, Big Mac Combos, both with real high sugar content colas and binging a couple of times on beer, none of which I touched during my Top Secret Weight Loss Program.
Your Pit Crew fellow member "Deadhorse" has been struggling with his inner strength and fortitude to stick to his self-imposed diet after you and I motivated him to dump some belly jelly. However, he has adjusted to Slim-Fast instead of Denny's Big Breakfasts and All-You-Can-Eat breakfast buffets.
Regards,
Dr. G, aka "BOOM BOOM INDIAN RACER #91
Chief of the World Adventure Affairs Desk, CITY BIKE, researching adventurous affairs now in SE Asia
I held my own while away. I started eating breakfasts, if for no other reason than that they were included in the hotel bill. I tried to show restraint otherwise. Eschew bread and deserts. Eat a lot of fish. I didn't gain any weight while away, so I feel reasonably good about that. Now back to the intermittent fasting regimen... but, I have to eat smaller portions, eliminate the bread and related to make real progress. Thanks for the inquiry. Makes me feel better to know that someone is looking over my shoulder!
Please give my regards to the both of them and a special happy birthday to Dick
Markco,
Ojai, CA
I held my own while away. I started eating breakfasts, if for no other reason than that they were included in the hotel bill. I tried to show restraint otherwise. Eschew bread and desserts. Eat a lot of fish. I didn't gain any weight while away, so I feel reasonably good about that. Now back to the intermittent fasting regimen... but, I have to eat smaller portions, eliminate the bread and related to make real progress. Thanks for the inquiry. Makes me feel better to know that someone is looking over my shoulder!
Please give my regards to the both of them and a special happy birthday to Dick
Markco,
Ojai, CA
Don Quixote, Man of La Mancha, tilts against windmills. — at Castilla-La Mancha, Spain. 02 October 2018.
Time to get the book. Cervantes, "Don Quixote."
Today, in transit, by car, from Toledo to Granada. Six hours en route, including stops at La Mancha to see the fort and the windmills, and at Valdepenas for lunch.
Above: El Contadore and Eton Mum. La Mancha, Spain. 02 October 2018.
Above: Bishop examines the works of a LaMancha windmill. 02 October 2018.
Today's windmill's of La Mancha date back two centuries... so they weren't there during Don Quixote's time, late 16th century. Works and mechanisms, however are the same type.
Windmills and La Mancha fort appear on volcanic hillock centered in the midst of a flat plain. Grain was grown in the plain and was milled up there on the hillock, where the wind was blowing.
Stephen D. Taylor is eating lunch with Margaret Taylor at Venta del Comendador de la Villa.
October 2 at 1:53 PM · VALDEPEÑAS, Spain ·
With el Contador y Eton Mum Valdepenas environs one of the big Spanish wine growing areas. Comendador was a recommendation to Eton Mum from employee of convenience store out on the freeway.
Above: TIMDT survey's Granada, from Hotel Alhambra. Granada, Spain. 02 October 2018.
Stephen D. Taylor is eating dinner with Margaret Taylor at Cunini.
October 2 at 9:05 PM · Granada, Spain ·
Oh SOLE oh mee oh. Another recommendation picked up by Eton Mum. More "eatin' good in the neighborhood." Adding to the gastronomic success of the trip.
Stephen D. Taylor is with Margaret Taylor in Alhambra. Granada, Spain.
October 3 at 12:01 PM ·
Room in which the American empire was born. TIMDT in tell tale blue hat. Here, in this room (see image above), in early 1492, Christopher Columbus met Isabella of Castilla, and obtained the funding for his first expedition to "India."
1942 was a year of great significance for Spain, not to mention Western Civilization.
In 1492 Isabella and Ferdinand of Aragon cemented their ten year alliance by getting married. In 1492, the combined forces of the two monarchs ousted the Moors (Muslims) from their last remaining stronghold, Granada, on the Iberian Peninsula.
The Alhambra was occupied for a short period by Ferdinand and Isabella.
For ten years previous to 1492, Ferdinand and Isabella had worked to oust the Jews from the Iberian Peninsula. Per Ferdinand and Isabella's anti Jewish edict, Jews could stay in Iberia if they force converted to Christianity, and many did "convert". But, locals didn't trust these "conversions." Surely those dastardly Jews were secretly practicing their Jewish beliefs behind closed doors! Ferdinand and Isabella appointed Torquemada to deal with the "problem" and, so, was born, the Spanish Inquisition. After the Moors were expunged from Granada in 1492, Jews in that city lost their protectors. A few years later, Spain was created out the twin kingdoms of Castilla (Isabella) and Aragon (Ferdinand)...and, by then, Spain was "purified" of all non Catholic pollutants ie. Muslims and Jews.
Columbus died in 1506 never knowing that he had "discovered" something other than India.
Columbus' "discovery" sparked more discoveries in the new world, For the next ninety years Spain became rich and powerful off of new world spoils... and perhaps a little over confident and lazy.
In 1588, Spain sent her armada of 150 ships north to destroy the English fleet. With the help of Admiral Nelson and some fortuitous winds, most of the Spanish fleet was destroyed.
Spain then entered a long, multi century period of decline with European powers periodically (Napoleon in the 1820's) picking away at them.
Some Spaniards were not happy with Spain's decline. "Don Quixote," a novel by Cervantes and set in the late 16th and early 17th centuries, is the story of a hapless, delusional character, unhappy with Spain's decline. He wants to fight. Delusional as he is, he "fights" the windmills of La Mancha, where we were yesterday.
It is a source of bemusement to me that "progressive elements" of modern culture debase Columbus contribution of having unlocked the door of discovery of the Americas. They base their objections on the fact that indigenous peoples were unjustly persecuted in land that belonged to them.
But, culture is important. If wealth per capita, individual freedom, and safety are important values, Western Culture established those values in America where indigenous cultures did not.
Indigenous culture was rife with inter tribal warfare, slavery, genocide, human sacrifice, and cannibalism. Fortunately, Western Culture, admittedly not without its own faults, succeeded in suppressing the worst of these practices. And for this, civilized people owe a debt of gratitude to Columbus.
The film, "Apocalypto," and Stephen Ambrose's book, "Custer and Crazy Horse," are both good at providing descriptions of the baseness of indigenous culture in the Americas.
Above: Court of the Lions. The Alhambra. Granada, Spain. 03 October 2018.
Twelve marble lions hold a marble fountain on their backs.
I purchased a copy of Washington Irvings, "Tales of the Alhambra" while visiting the palace.
Irving, in 1829, a roving correspondent for American publications, came to Granada. On a lark, he told the administering authority of the Alhambra in Granada, "gee, wouldn't it be great to live in a palace like the Alhambra... to channel the ghosts and the history there.!? "Done," said the administrator.
Irving lived in an apartment in the palace for several months. He wandered the palace at all hours... searched out its stories and its secrets, its ghosts, and wrote a wonderfully descriptive book about his experience. Irving's book has a chapter on Court of the Lions, which, according to most accounts, is the most impressive part of the palace.
Some observers are not impressed with the lion sculptures. Though each lion, has a different, carved, motif, the putative simplicity of the carving suggests to some that the artisans who made the lions were probably just low skilled Christian slaves. Whatever. The overall effect of the fountain, its courtyard, and the adjacent sleeping rooms of the royalty is one of symmetrical magnificence.
I'm half way through reading Washington Irving's book as I write here. Irving: "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow." Same Irving.
Washington Irving returned to Spain in the 1840's to be American Ambassador.
Above: TIMDT surveys the palace. The Alhambra, Granada, Spain. 03 October 2018.
View of palace from palace gardens.
The Moors. The builders of the magnificent Alhambra Palace.
The time of the Moors: a strange interlude of history. An errant caliph pretender was chased out of Baghdad. Over a six year period he worked his way across north Africa, amassed a movement of 10K scattered Arabs and Berber tribesmen, and crossed the Gibralter Straits, in 711, into Spain. After marching as far as the Loire River in France, where they were rebuffed by Charles Martel at the Gates of Tour, the Moor invaders returned to Spain where they more or less ruled for nearly 700 years. 700 hundred years! The United States is shy of 250 years old!
During the their ascendancy, while Christian Europe was in the Dark Ages, the Moors advanced learning, art, and tolerance. Jews and Christians were treated with equanimity by the Moors, though (cough) they had to pay a higher tax than Muslims. Yet... they could all get along.... more or less! But, at least as far as the Moors were concerned, don't let it be said that Muslims weren't tolerant of other faiths.
Almost from the beginning of the Moor conquest, Christian rulers fought to take back their lands. The Christian, insurgent movement was called the "Reconquista." The "Reconquista" coincided with the Crusades, a companion effort, in the Holy Land, by Christians to push back against Muslim hegemony. By 1250 AD Cordoba and Seville had been retaken by the Christians. But the Moors hung on in Granada until 1492.
After the Moors were finally expelled in 1492 by the forces of Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand, they more or less disappeared from the face of the earth as an organized people. At one time, Cordoba was the equal of Baghdad and Constantinople. The Moors had even declared themselves a caliphate to rival that of Baghdad.
Tapas. Fried aubergine with honey. — eating tapas lunch at Tinta Fina. Granada, Spain. 03 October 2018.
TIMDT went crazy over the pictured dish. Not shown. Prawns, calamari...
More superior dining, a hallmark of this trip.
After lunch we drove, two hours, through the mountains, to Malaga, on the Mediterranean coast of southern Spain.
Stephen D. Taylor is with Margaret Taylor at AC Hotel Málaga Palacio.
October 3 at 9:11 PM · Málaga, Spain ·
Mirador Princess Ferris wheel can be barely discerned at center of the image. A ride on this Ferris wheel is in the offing tomorrow, Eton Mum's birthday present to el Contador.
Above: Mirador Princess Ferris Wheel. Malaga, Spain. 03 October 2018.
Image from AC Hotel Malaga Palacio. Pool/restaurant deck.
Above: Picasso's "Guernica."
Stephen D. Taylor is with Margaret Taylor at Museo Picasso Málaga.
Yesterday at 11:15 AM · Málaga, Spain ·
We tried and failed (no reservations) to see Museo Picasso Barcelona in June.
Prolific artist Picasso has museum collections in Marseille and Nice as well.
We were glad to gain admittance to the Malaga Picasso museum. Picasso lived most of his life, and completed most of his paintings, in Italy and France. But, he was born here in Malaga where this Picasso museum has a collection of over two hundred Picasso works.
The museum in Malaga has to be seen if only to understand the "artist's" considerable impact on Western Culture...an impact not altogether positive, in my opinion.
Notwithstanding, one has to admit that Picasso's art, whatever one thinks of it, has had significant cultural impact. Picasso's Guernica (1937) (above image) is considered the single most impressive piece of art in Spain. It is a monumental canvas - one of Europe's must-see sights, in the Prado Museum in Madrid. I have seen Guernica hanging at the Prado on a previous visit to Spain in 1968. "Guernica" is not only a piece of art, but a piece of history seeking to capture the horror of modern war.
Guernica was born in response to the Spanish civil war (1936 to 1939) which pitted the democratically elected Second Republican government against the facist general Francisco Franco. Franco won and ended up ruling Spain with an iron first for the next thirty six years. During the war, Picasso's Guernica was used as a rallying point to raise money for the losing Republican cause.
Cultural impact of Guernica? Yes... considerable. But, is it art?
For me Picasso cubism, not withstanding its cultural impact, is a midway descent into the artistic chaos of Warhol (can of tomato soup) or Smithson (inchoate pile of glass shards).
ie. art as a gag... a joke... a scam...a form of mass hypnotism on amoeba minds unable to discern what is lofty from what is base.
Do an experiment. Take two groups of ten ten year olds. Give each group member a canvas and a palate. Tell the members of group one to reproduce Picasso's "The Dream." Tell the members of group two to replicate El Greco's Exfolio de Cristo. The chances of finding a successful replication of a the Picasso far exceed the chance of obtaining a close facsimile of the El Greco. In fact, the chance of getting a successful el Greco reproduction under the circumstances of this experiment is nil. One, el Greco, is art, requiring unique skill to produce...the other, Picasso, is playing with color, where innumerable clones could be created with random attempts by the inexperienced.
In October 2016, TIMDT and Mwah (sic) saw Smithson's works at Dia:Beacon Museum on the Hudson in New York State We also observed selected Warhol works at a recent exhibit the Seattle Museum of "Art."
At Dia:Beacon I asked the young, female docent explaining the Smithson art piece, a disjointed pile of glass shards on the floor if Smithson actually fashioned the "art piece" himself. The teary, Smithson groupie, a Smithson besotted, young twenties, docent replied, "Oh no! Smithson is dead! A certified committee of Smithson experts is empowered to replicate his work, any time, any place." Whahhh? This is art??!!
Unimaginably, on some lists of the world 's top art pieces, is Smithson's absurd Spiral Jetty, on the remote shores of the Great Salt Lake.
Thanks to aberrant art pace setters like Picasso, what is considered art today is a mishmash of valueless, uninspiring, objects, filling space. No inspiration. No aspiration. Instead, beaucoup nilhist inspired deconstructionism of true art. Check Guernica, in the image above: it certainly has more in common with Smithson's disjointed pile of glass shards than it does, say, El Greco's Expolio de Christo.
A friend said, "Art is who we are." Unfortunately, she's right. Absent inspirational art, and glutted by low standard "faux art," low standards of art bleed over into other elements of our culture. Witness the success of the ongoing trashing of the "presumption of innocence" standard in the US. A world without standards, including artistic standards, begets, ultimately, anarchy.
Art lovers, hunker down.
Spanish artists? Aspirational El Greco, seen in all his glory in Toledo this trip, is 10x Picasso. 10x Dali.
I did like Picasso's plaster owl sculpture, though.
Note: Full disclosure. TIMDT and Mwah (sic) have driven out (2015) to the north end of the Great Salt Lake to see Smithson's Spiral Jetty.
Malaga, Spain. 04 October 2018
El Contadore recounts the history of his 30 some odd times running with the bulls at the annual San Fremin festival in Pamplona.
Bishop joined el Contadore in Pamplona in 2012 to run with the bulls, but, after assessing his 100% prospect of being in near space with a freaked out bull, and considering his then age of 65, the Bishop chickened out.
At Pamplona, to engage in the festivities, the Bishop had to be satisfied with getting drenched with sangria, hurled by revelers, while seated with spectators, in the bull ring. And truth be told, locals seemed to take disproportionate pleasure dousing the two, reveling American geezers with Sangria.
Above: TIMDT rides the Noria Mirador Princess Ferris wheel, Malaga, Spain. 04 October 2018.
There once was a woman from Cod,
Who thought all kids came from God.
But it wasn't the Almighty, who lifted her nighty.
Roger, the codger, by God!
Bishop, TIMDT, el Contadore and Eton Mum.
Over fresh seafood and nostalgic, early-in-the-day, Marie Brizzards, drawing from the endless repository of jokes, ditties and one liners from el Contadore. Its great to see el Contadore in such good cheer on his 80th birthday celebration.
— at Los Mellizos Málaga. 04 October 2018.
Stephen D. Taylor is traveling to Madrid, Spain with Margaret Taylor from Málaga María Zambrano railway station. 04 October 2018
Above: Sea of olive trees. near Cordoba, Spain. 04 October 2018.
As seen from window of speeding train en route from Malaga, Spain to Madrid Spain.
TIMDT and Mwah (sic) would spend the night in the Airport Hilton Hotel before flying off the next AM from Madirid to Salt Lake City. Delta to JFK. Delta JFK to SLC.
TIMDT and Mwah (sic) are eternally grateful for having been invited to join el Contadore and Eton Mum in Spain for el Contadore's 80th birthday celebration. Eton Mum's organization and planning of this celebration and ensuing trip has been nothing short of legendary, a fitting tribute to the legendary life of el Contadore who had spent 7 years living and working in Spain.
Now, the Bishop is having to contend with repeated pleas of TIMDT to return to Spain, if for no other reason than the seafood.
Addendum:
Very happy to see you on your feet and mobile, Steve. Waitin' for the snow to start fallin'!!
Norman and Suzanne,
Washington, CT
My daughter just shared with her 8th grade class that many of the diseases attributes to Columbus and his men had already arrived in North America....
Been to the Barcelona museum.
Long Beach,
Park City, UT
It’s taken you quite some time to try and catch up….keep trying, maybe you’ll get there some day. Try visiting what is left of the Jewish Synagogue in Toledo.
Jack Aroon,
Mahwah, NJ.
We saw the Toledo synagogue. We've also visited synagogues in St. Petersburg, Mumbai, and Cochin in recent years. Poignant to see remnant of once vibrant culture, since eradicated from all of these locations.
Hi Steve,
So my wife’s cousin and I flew to Spain a few years ago, rented BMW GS’s out of Malaga and then road around southern Spain. We stayed at the Los Angelas Hotel in Granada that was located just down the hill from the Alhambra. I remember being told that the wood carver’s that worked on the palace had their eyes gouged out after they finished the palace. The reason we were told was the because the ruler didn’t want anyone to have a palace as beautiful as his. We’re not sure the story was true but sure made an impression on us.
So, are you headed to Rondo yet? That was also a highlight of the trip to Spain.
Take Care
HP2,
Colorado Springs, CO
Excellent historical account.
Hamilton,
Turramurra, NSW, OZ
Great notes! Wish I could be with you. October 12 is Columbus Day—we celebrated it yesterday in Utah. So many attempts by liberals and those who would rewrite history to pull Columbus down. Absurd accusations have been hurled against him and many places have abandoned Columbus Day altogether. Try to find a copy of Washington Irving’s “A History of the Life and Voyages of Christopher Columbus”. Irving had access to original documents that allowed him to write a magnificent biography of Columbus. It was published in 1828 in the US and England in 3 volumes US and 4 volumes England. I have an 1828 English edition published in London in 4 volumes. It is a compelling account. I had to read all four volumes before I could do anything else!
Be sure to read it.
I get hungry whenever I read your notes. Be sure to pass on my very best to el Contador and Eton Mum!
The Monk,
Gooseberry, UT
Great tour description and recap of the Moorish occupation of Southern Spain! We loved that entire area. Food, scenery, history! Many leftover Arabic-influenced words, not the least of which are all the "Guads", as in Guadalquivir, Guadalajara, etc, from "Wadi", which is Arabic for river or watercourse, often wet only in the rainy season.
Couple of minor points: the Armada predated Admiral Nelson by about 200 years. The English fleet was directed by Lord Howard, Sir Francis Drake and Sir John Hawkins. Their faster and more maneuverable ships harried the better armed but less agile Spaniards and prevented them from escorting barges full of over 15,000 soldiers of the Duke of Parma's army to invade England and restore Catholicism. I enjoyed reading "In the Confident Hope of a Miracle" by Neil Hansen about Philip II's certainty that God would not let a Spanish Catholic attack on heretical Protestant England fail.
Airstream,
Santa Barbara, CA
Uhhh.... errr..... I just put "Nelson" in there to see if anybody was reading it. Congratulations on passing the test.... cough.... cough.....
Image of Cumil the sewer worker. Bratislava, Slovakia. 03 October 2018.
Image captured and forwarded by The Pope as he tours the region.
TIMDT and I were in Bratislava in fall 2016 where we captured a like image of Cumil.
Debate rages on as to what this cheeky chap is actually doing as he pokes out of a sculptural manhole in Bratislava’s old town district. The odd statue was installed in 1997 as part of an effort to spice up the look and feel of the area which was traditionally marked with drab Communist-era architecture and decoration.
As Cumil is leaning out over a curb it comes as no surprise that his head has been clipped off more than once by careless motorists. The statue isn’t just a danger to drivers, but to pedestrians as well. Woe betide the drunkard stumbling their way home in the dark; he’ll have you on the floor if you’re not paying attention. In order to protect drivers, amblers, and most importantly, Cumil himself, the city installed a warning sign just above his head. The unique sign seems to be saying, “watch out for creeps underfoot.”
Physical dangers aside, Cumil has come to be a beloved institution in the city and visitors come from all over to lay in the street and look him in the eyes, or just sit on his head. You can decide for yourself whether the old man is a bronze peeping tom or not.