Picto Diary - 01 July 2018 - Barcelona (2)/Trip Back
Above: Santa Anna Church. Barcelona, Spain. 01 July 2018.
TIMDT, B1B, Mynduveroan, and Mwah (sic) took a "Rick Steves Walk" from Placa de Catalunya to Barcelona Cathedral. We found this small, ancient (1100 AD circa) Romanesque cathedral along the way.
Rudy Jr.'s and Portland's family had left very early yesterday. FeeBee and Bud also left yesterday, but, on a later flight. Bud had to be back for an important band practice.
I told Mynduveroan that this cathedral was built 800 years before the Mormons came to the Salt Lake Valley. That seems like a long time. Don't get me talking about geologic time... my brain pops.
There were some other interesting sites along this walk. Two gateway towers, dating back to Roman times. An old, still working, city well source where citizens used to obtain their drinking water. Some still do. Reminds of Artesian Well park in Salt Lake City.... though I'm sure the well in Barcelona pre dates the one in Salt Lake.
On reaching the cathedral, TIMDT, B1B, and Mynduveroan walked over to the Ramblas while I explored the area of the cathedral. We met at a cafe near the cathedral an hour later so as to be ready to watch the Sardane dancers in the cathedral square at noon.
Above: Cloister, Barcelona Cathedral. 01 July 2018.
I couldn't enter the cathedral as Sunday services were in progress. If you could convince the guard you were a Catholic who wanted to worship, you could enter. I didn't think I could pull that off... nor would it have been right. Also, I was inappropriately attired, wearing shorts.
Above: The Sardane. Barcelona Cathedral Square. 01 July 2018.
The Sardane is an ancient dance unique to Catalonia. It is performed at Barcelona Cathedral, backed up by a brass band sitting on the cathedral steps, on Sundays at noon, by anyone who wants to participate.
The Sardane has become a symbol of Catalon nationalism. Catolon patriots come to dance, but, the dance is open to anyone who wants to participate. Most of the dancers we saw were of a certain age.
The Sardane is a benign, subtle dance. There is really not that much to it. Dancers form a circle, hold hands, and do small steps... the right... to the left... back... and forward again. And, then, the circle moves a step clockwise. The routine is performed over and over until the music stops. Its kind of a low impact line dance... except in a circle, not a line. The music is a bit haunting, in a minor key. Wistful, somewhat poignant...religious, and, if you believe in the idea of Catalon nationalism, aspirational.... the Sardane.
Evidence of Catalon, as opposed to Spanish, patriotism is rife in Barcelona. Many apartment windows show a bowed yellow ribbon displayed as a protest of Spanish federal government - some say illegal -imprisonment of orchestrators of the recent election for Catalon independence from Spain. Catalon flags are also flown from residences.
Catalons recently voted to secede from Spain, but, Spanish federal authorities declared the election illegal and arrested and imprisoned leaders of the independence movement.
Above: B1B and Mynduveroan watch World Cup. Marriot Sant Hotel lobby. Barcelona, Spain. Spain vs. Russia. 1-1. OVERTIME! (as this image was taken)
Soccer Girl Mynduveroan watches, rapt.
Post game edit: Russia wins in end game 5x penalty kick competition! — at AC Hotel by Marriott Sants.
It was hard to gauge the local reaction to Spain's loss. Spain was a big favorite in this match... and after Brazil and France, Spain was considered to be a top contender for the World Cub championship.
Most of the viewers in the hotel were foreigners.
Out on the street, later, I didn't sense any woe form the many local passers by. Pre-game... there was no apparent horn honking, or people running around singing in Spain team soccer jerseys. Is there a Catalonia first, Spain "meh" thing going on here in Barcelona?
I was happy for the Russians. They are playing at 60 to 1 odds to win the cup. And here they beat powerful Spain to move forward to the round of eight.
Hosting the World Cup AND having their team move into the final eight has to be real shot in the arm for Putin's quest to revive the Russian spirit, brutally battered by 80 years of Communism. To be sure, Russia has a long row to hoe to create a country of vitality and growth. The country loses 1 million in population per year and alcoholism is a chronic problem.
I am optimistic for Russia over the long haul though. This is the country that turned back Napoleon and Hitler (siege of Leningrad and Stalingrad). Stalin killed 30 million Russians to protect his authoritarian regime and to force collectivism. Russians are inured to hardship and stress on levels not comprehensible in the snowflake West. Russia has produced some of the world's greatest literature and music and has the capacity to revive the cultural preeminence it kicked off during the time of Catherine the Great.
I heard from the TV sports commentators that the Russians have done a terrific job in organizing this World Cup. Putting on a good show and having a solid, better than expected team performance, can only help buttress Russia's quest for cultural revival. Russia will also get a boost from the current rising oil prices as "the fatherland" is one of the largest oil producers in the world.
Things are looking up for Russia, as they are in the United States. Here's hoping that Trump can facilitate a fair rapprochement with Russia. The US and Russia have too much in common... space program, oil production, need to fight Islamic terror... for them not to be friends. Russia and the US have fought on the same side during two world wars. Russia gotta stop the cyber warfare though. The only way for the US to counter that, is to thump Russia back... tit for tat as it were. Lets get on with it.
Above: Paella. Restaurante Cerveceria Casa Martelo. Barcelona, Spain. 01 July 2018. Great meal. TIMDT found this place on a recommendation from the hotel concierge. We got a couple of miles walking in in the process. The restaurant was open early.... we dined at 6:45 PM. Typically, Spaniards don't start eating until 9:00 PM or later. Barcelona establishments recognize, however, that much of their economy is driven by tourism so some restaurants provide the full meal service earlier than normal.
Above: In flight map from Delta aircraft showing route from Barcelona to Atlanta.
Sleep? Movie? Read? Movie. "Hostiles."
Western. Two of my favorite actors: Christian Bale and Ben Foster. Rosumund Pike excellent in role of wife surviving a Comanchero attack that left her three children and husband dead.
1892. President Harrison orders "repatriation" from New Mexico prison of seven year captive Indian chief, Yellow Hawk (played by Wes Studi) and his family back to Montana home.
Bale character, Joseph Blocker, hardened army Indian fighter Captain, ordered, much against his will, to lead the transfer party of his former antagonist, Yellow Hawk.
Blocker, as Odysseus, leads Yellow Hawk and company from NM to MT, where the travelers encounter Comoncheros, a nasty bunch of trappers, and stubborn Montana "land owners." No Sirens or Charibdis, though.
Erstwhile antagonists, Yellow Hawk and Blocker develop a mutual respect for one another as they mutually cooperate to face the challenges and threats of the journey.
Foster plays a cameo role as a soldier prisoner accused of murder, former friend of Blocker, who is picked up at a fort in Colorado along the way. Blocker is supposed to escort him to Montana to face trial. Foster's escape adds to the Odyssian drama of the film.
Bale and Foster starred together in the 2015 remake of "3:10 to Yuma," a better film than this one.
Movie was engaging...scenery, score excellent. Syrupy, mutual befriending of bitter enemies a bit unrealistic, driven by modern sentiment of political correctness and guilt of taking out - disrespecting - the Indians.
In point of fact, there wasn't much to respect and laud about the lifestyle and contribution of the plains Indian. They were slavers, kidnappers and misogynists who made little or no contribution to human progress.
But, that was then. This is now.
Above: Trip trinkets.
Toy Deux Chevaux purchased at St. Paul de Vence. Lacquered bull bought in Barcelona.
My trip trinket shelf is full. I'll have to open up another.
The trip was above expectation.
Disney has the family experience down well. It was strange being on a cruise where half the passengers are kids. I asked one of our kids his favorite thing about the trip. Not Colosseum, not Vesuvius, not Pompeii but, the session in the Animator's Palate restaurant where he was able to see his stick-man come alive on the screen as a character in a real Disney cartoon.
I was amazed at how much we saw. You couldn't visit all the places we saw in a week by not being on a cruise ship... a hotel, that moves every night, as it were.
Pompeii, Vesuvius, St. Paul de Vence, Marseilles, and Barcelona were all new stops for me. And, it had been a long time since I had visited the other destinations.... Rome, Pisa, Genoa, and the French Riviera.
Its been a long time since I've traveled in Europe during the peak of summer, so I was ill equipped to traveling with hoards of tourists everywhere. The Sistine Chapel has to be seen... but, it is an ordeal to see it in a flow of mass humanity.
Rome was really trashy. Our Naples (Vesuvius, Pompeii) guide told us that Rome had now replaced Naples as Italy's garbage city. That fact, she said, is not widely known as no one wants to kill the proverbial Roman goose and its golden egg. Its not an "Italy phenomenon." Pisa and Genoa were neatly trimmed and spotless.
It was great being with family. We had lots of interaction that is frequently missed during busy lives while at home. Yes, we are blessed by living near all of our children and grand children... but, you can always improve on enjoying and strengthening family relationships... and this trip facilitated that in spades.
I'm confident that the trip sowed seeds, on varying levels, of world awareness for our five grandchildren... and I'm happy for that.